RV Service Tips from Our Technicians

Winterizing

It's winterizing time for some of us. The easiest way to winterize you water system is to take your camper south to warmer weather for the winter. Unfortunately for most of us, that isn't always practical. If you are going to do it yourself, there are a few things you can do to ensure an easy and thorough job. These items apply to demand type water systems. If you have a pressure water system, you can eliminate the pump converter kit. The water heater bypass kit as the name implies, allows you to winterize without filling the water heater with antifreeze. The pump converter kit allows you to pump antifreeze through the system without dumping a lot of antifreeze into your fresh water tank. THe blowout plug screws into your city water hookup and gives an easy way to blow water out of the lines and water heater. After blowing out the lines, don't forget to remove the water heater drain plug and let the water drain until air blows out the drain. Pump the antifreeze throughout the system. Don't forget to dump some in the traps. Alternatively take it to your dealer for winterizing. Finally, before parking for the winter, be sure your waste tanks are empty and closed. Don't seal the water heaters with plastic, as it can trap moisture and do more harm than good. Check the condition of your roof vents. A normal roof vent is shin if the plastic is dull looking or pitted; consider replacing them before storing for the winter if you are storing outdoors.

Refrigeration and Air Conditioning

One of the most common complaints related to RV refrigerators and air conditioners takes the form of "my refrigerator or air conditioner isn't working very well." This complaint is frequently related to electrical supply problems and in the case of the refrigerator is easily checked by switching to gas (assuming that you have kept it in operating condition.) If you are running an air conditioner, you should be using a voltage monitor of some type! Your air conditioner requires 120 volts +/- 10% to operate correctly. With low voltage, either the compressor will not run or if it does, you risk damaging the compressor motor. Protecting your appliances from low voltage is fairly easy, you need a voltage monitor or voltmeter to check voltage at an outlet in your unit, with and without the AC running. Oneof the other easy protections is to use either NO extension cords or a cord that is properly sized. If you are running an air conditioner and you must have an extension cord, you should be using the 10 gauge RV extension. Don't forget to check your refrigerator vents and vent door for obstructions. You should be able to look up from the bottom vent to the roof vent trap without anything but refrigerator coils to restrict the view. The vent door should not have any screens or furnace filters over it. They are not suppose to be there and will restrict air flow. Clean your air conditioner filter and check the condenser fins on the roof occassionally. Wash the filter (foam) in mild detergent and rinse well. Non foam filters should be vacuumed or replaced. Any other maintenance should be done by qualified technicians.

Furnace

Annually, check the operation , have the burner and combustion chamber cleaned as well. Some of the older models with cast iron burners need to be cleaned every couple of years. One of the telltale signs that cleaning is necessary is soot streaks on the outside wall above the furnace vent. On electronic ignition models, make sure that the electrode is in good condition and properly gapped. If you find you are having ignition problems with direct ignition furnaces, don't just change the ignition control board without testing the rest of the furnace. There are several other things that can cause a malfunction that appears to be a bad control board. If it is necessary to replace the control board, consider one of the new boards from Dinosaur Electronic, which have several improvements over the original equipment boards. And last, but not least, make sure that your gas system pressure is checked and the regulator adjusted if necessary. If you haven't already done so, make a note of the furnace brand name, model number and the serial number. Put these somewhere for quick reference. It's also a good idea to do this for the rest of your appliances.

Trouble shooting blower models:
Check for:

• power to the furnace
• blown fuses
• thermostat contacts (do not short across teh thermostat wires)
• damaged wiring

Blower Runs but no Ignition:
Check for:

• LP gas supply
• low voltage
• correct 12 volt polarity
• blocked exhaust or intake

There are other causes for these problems, all of which are best left to qualified technicians.

Bearings

Dexter Axle recommends wheel bearing lubrication every 12 months or 12,000 miles. Don't forget to replace the grease seals when you do the bearings. Also, for trailers with brakes, while the drum is off, check the brake shoes and magnets for grease contamination, as well as the inside drum surface. Clean if necessary with a cleaner designed for use on brake shoes. Brake shoes and magnets contaminated with grease indicate over greasing and bad grease seals.

Awnings

Check your hardware for operation at the beginning of each season, lubricating buttons, handles and threaded knobs. Be careful not to get petroleum based lubricants on your awning fabrics. Remember to lower on end of your awning if you are going to leave it extended during rain storms and roll up when leaving unattended or during periods of high winds. Most awning damage we see is related to water pooling on the fabric or awnings worn loose in high winds. Generally speaking, neither of these conditions are covered by manufacturers warranty

Vinyl awning fabrics are mildew resistent. Mildew will form on the tree sap, dirt and dust that accumulate on an awning in normal use. Periodic cleaning can prevent this. Clean with a commercial awning cleaner. Extend your awning and swab the fabric using a soft brush, mop or sponge. This should be applied to the top and bottom. To do the bottom, do the top first, then roll up the awning for a few minutes. Extend the awning and rinse well with fresh water. Repeat if necessary. Let dry before rolling up for storage.

Running Gear

When getting your camper out for the season, don't forget to check the running gear (axles, springs, spring hangers and spring shackles.) The best time to do this is when you have your bearings lubricated. High mileage units in particular should have the spring shackles checked annually. Spring shackles are the narrow metal strips that attach your springs to the hanger or equalier and of course to the trailer. Spring shackles allow the necessary movement from the springs flexing and help to keep all wheels working together. Due to normal movement and the lack of lubrication, the shackles will wear their mounting bolts holes egg shaped which weakens them.

Tires

Before heading out on your camping trip, don't forget to check the air pressure in your tires. Under inflation combined with high speeds causes excessive heat in tire and can cause tire failure. The recommended pressure is usually printed on the sidewall of the tire. It is also a good idea to look at your tires occasionally to check the wear pattern. Over inflated tires will wear in the center, while under inflated tires will show more wear at the edges. If you see scallop like patterns around the edges (also called cupping) you may have a loose wheel bearing or possibly an alignment problem. Also, check for sidewall cracking and/or bulges. Some sidewall cracks are normal in trailer tires, mostly from exposure to sunlight. Sidewall cracking should be checked periodically for depth and signs of cord showing. Cord showing or numerous deep cracks indicate that it is time for new tires.